It is a strange fact that one of the most beautiful monuments in Marrakech was, for a long time, deliberately forgotten. The Saadian Tombs sat behind a high wall in the southern part of the old city for more than two centuries, with the entrance blocked, and it was only in the early 20th century that the outside world was reminded they existed. Today they are among the most visited sites in the city, and a short visit gives you a vivid picture of Moroccan taste at the end of the 16th century. Here is the story behind them, what to look for when you go, and how to make the most of your time.
The Saadians: a dynasty of soldiers and builders
The Saadian dynasty came from the Draa valley in the south of Morocco. Claiming descent from the family of the Prophet, they built their power in the early 16th century, at a time when the Portuguese were occupying parts of the Atlantic coast and the previous dynasty was weak. Their rise began in the south, from where they gradually took control of more territory, and by the middle of the century they had made Marrakech their capital.
The most famous Saadian ruler was Ahmad al-Mansur, who ruled from 1578 until his death in 1603. He came to power after the Battle of the Three Kings, fought in August 1578 near Ksar el-Kebir, in which the Moroccan army defeated a Portuguese force led by King Sebastian, who died in the battle. The ransom paid for captured Portuguese nobles made the new sultan wealthy, and he used the money to build, including the vast El Badi Palace and the mausoleum that is the centrepiece of the Saadian Tombs. He was given the title al-Mansur, “the victorious”, and a second one, ad-Dhahabi, “the golden”, which referred to his wealth.
A royal burial ground
The Saadian burial ground lies next to the Kasbah Mosque, in the southern part of the medina. The site was already used for burials before al-Mansur: his father, Sultan Mohammed ash-Sheikh, was buried there after his death in 1557. Al-Mansur then added the main mausoleum in the late 16th century, in which he planned to be buried himself, and the complex contains the tombs of members of the royal family and officials.
It is said that around sixty members of the dynasty are buried here, along with perhaps a hundred servants and soldiers in the surrounding garden. The graves in the garden are marked with simple tiled covers, and you can walk among them. The burial of ordinary members of the household next to a ruler is a point worth noting: even in death, hierarchy was expressed in space, with the most important people in the grandest chambers and the others in the open air.
The Hall of Twelve Columns
The highlight of the visit is the main mausoleum, a square chamber known as the Hall of Twelve Columns. Its name comes from the twelve slender columns of Italian marble that support a high ceiling. According to a tradition, the marble was imported from Carrara in Italy and paid for with its weight in sugar, a luxury product of Morocco at the time. That is a story that you will often hear, and it is a fine illustration of the trade that made the Saadians rich, because they controlled sugar plantations in the south.
The hall contains the tomb of Ahmad al-Mansur himself, together with the tombs of his son and grandson. Above the columns, the ceiling is made of carved cedar and decorated with gilded plasterwork, a masterpiece of the stucco and wood carving that Moroccan artisans had perfected. The walls are covered with zellij tile, in geometric patterns of blue, green and yellow, and inscriptions run around the room. Everything is arranged for the effect of luxury and calm: light enters from above, and the room feels like a jewel box.
Beside it is the Hall of the Three Niches, a smaller chamber with a graceful, arcaded design, and an adjoining space known as the Mihrab room, a prayer room with a richly decorated niche indicating the direction of Mecca. Another chamber holds the tomb of Lalla Mesouda, the mother of al-Mansur, who had a significant role in the court.
Hidden for centuries
Why were the tombs forgotten? After al-Mansur’s death, the Saadian dynasty fell into a period of civil war, and in the 17th century it was replaced by the Alaouites, the dynasty that still reigns today. The second Alaouite sultan, Moulay Ismail, who ruled from 1672 to 1727, wanted to build a grand new capital in Meknes, and he did so partly by stripping materials from the palaces of his predecessors. The El Badi Palace was dismantled in this way. The Saadian tombs were not destroyed, but according to accounts he had the entrance walled up, so that the burial ground could not be visited and would fade from memory. Only a narrow passage next to the Kasbah Mosque kept it accessible.
The tombs remained hidden for over two centuries. In 1917, during the French protectorate, an aerial survey of the area revealed the existence of the burial ground behind the walls. The French authorities opened the site, restored it and made it accessible. It has been a public monument ever since, and it is now one of the most celebrated examples of Saadian art.
What to look for
A visit is short, but there is a lot to see, so here are some pointers.
- The ceiling. Look up inside the Hall of Twelve Columns. The cedar and plaster work, with its repeating stars and floral patterns, is among the finest in Marrakech.
- The marble. The columns, the floor and the tomb markers use white Italian marble, a rare material in Morocco at the time, which stands out against the coloured tile.
- The tile. The lower walls are covered with zellij in complex geometric patterns. Notice how each panel is made up of small pieces, cut and fitted by hand.
- The inscriptions. Arabic calligraphy runs along friezes, quoting verses and praising the dead. Even if you cannot read it, you can see how the lettering is itself a form of decoration.
- The garden. The open-air cemetery, with its rows of simple tombs and a few orange trees, gives a different impression from the grand chambers. It is peaceful, and reminds you that this is a burial place.
Practical visiting tips
The Saadian Tombs are small, and the narrow entrance and the size of the main chamber mean that it can get crowded, especially in the middle of the day.
- Go early. Arrive when the site opens, or in the late afternoon, to avoid the largest groups and the longest queues. Visitors are often asked to move through the chambers in turn.
- Allow 30 to 45 minutes. Longer if you want to study the details.
- Be respectful. This is a cemetery, so speak quietly and dress modestly.
- Photograph with care. Photography is usually allowed, but the room is small, so avoid blocking others.
- Check opening times and fees. They can change, so confirm locally.
- Enter through the narrow passage. The walk from the street to the tombs takes you along the side of the Kasbah Mosque, which is a pleasant approach.
Combining it with nearby sights
The tombs are next to the Kasbah Mosque, built in the 1190s by the Almohad caliph Yaqub al-Mansur, and the area is known as the Kasbah, the old royal quarter. Within a few minutes’ walk you will find the El Badi Palace, which Ahmad al-Mansur built with the same ransom and which Moulay Ismail later dismantled, and the Bahia Palace, the 19th-century vizier’s residence. Together, the three form a satisfying half-day tour of the monuments of the south medina. Afterwards, a stroll back to Jemaa el-Fnaa completes the route, and the Koutoubia Mosque stands nearby on the way.
The Saadians beyond Marrakech
If the Saadians interest you, you can follow their story outside the city. They made the town of Taroudant, in the Souss plain to the south-west, their first capital, and its red-ochre ramparts still stand. Our six-day gravel route, The Long Way to Taroudant, ends in that town and returns over the Tizi n’Test pass. The Saadians also fought and traded across the Atlas, and cycling the passes and valleys gives you a sense of how the dynasty moved between south and north.
Why Saadian art matters
The Saadian period is often described as a high point of Moroccan decorative art, and the tombs are the best place to see why. The craftsmen who worked here drew on traditions inherited from Almohad and Marinid buildings, but they used richer materials and bolder combinations. Gilded stucco, imported marble, polychrome tile and carved cedar were brought together in a single small space, and the effect is deliberately theatrical: a sultan’s resting place was meant to announce his wealth and his legitimacy to everyone who saw it.
It is also worth remembering how little of Saadian architecture survives. The El Badi Palace is a ruin, many of the dynasty’s other buildings were rebuilt or lost, and so the tombs are one of the few places where you can stand inside a complete Saadian interior. That rarity is one reason why conservators watch over the site so carefully, and why visitor numbers are controlled at busy times.
Visiting with a little extra care
Because the main chamber is small, the best visit is a patient one. Wait for a gap in the crowd, step into the middle of the Hall of Twelve Columns, and let your eyes travel slowly from the floor to the ceiling. Families with children usually find the garden the most welcoming part of the site, as there is more space to move, but children should be reminded that it is a cemetery. If you are travelling with a guide, ask for the story of the rediscovery in 1917, which many visitors find the most surprising part of the history.
Final thoughts
The Saadian Tombs are small, but they say a great deal. They show a dynasty at the height of its wealth, an artistic tradition of astonishing refinement, and a successor who tried to erase it by closing a door. That the door was opened again, and that we can now stand under the marble columns of the Hall of Twelve Columns, makes the visit more moving. Go early, look up, and give yourself a quiet minute in the garden before you leave.